Umami Cafe

Original publication: 09/19/02 in The Journal News.

So what is that elusive fifth flavor called umami, that inscrutable amino acid with a Japanese name? Even Jonathan Pratt, owner of the seven-month-old restaurant by that name in Croton-on-Hudson, can only make a stab at defining it. A big poster in the deep blue lobby tries. Parmesan and truffles, miso and just-picked ripe tomatoes, foie gras and potato chips are all rich in umami. It's satisfying, enhancing, robust; it's whatever makes you say "Mmmm" and ask for more.

Despite a long-awaited downpour, an orange outdoor table on the covered deck looked inviting. The tropical weather suited the primarily tropical food and we didn't get wet at all. Besides, at 6:30 there was already no table for us inside. No reservations are taken, and weekends are often busy — try lunch instead.

Dinner opened with amazing housemade potato chips, absolutely addictively crunchy and salty — you really can't eat just one of these paper-thin delicacies. The skins-on, skinny fries that showed up with the ribs later on were their equal.

A pitcher of Saw Mill River Yonkers Lager goes well with this cuisine, but the wine list is thoughtful, assembling a number of well-priced possibilities that complement bigger, spicier flavors. The floral Riesling or light, mineral-toned Orvieto might have been good choices, but we red-wine drinkers tried the Cataldo Nero D'Avola 2001, a Sicilian red with just enough edge.

"We interpret and blend the cuisines of many nations, but all dishes have in common a high level of umami flavor," says the menu. While the food is not exclusively Asian — witness the truffled mac and cheese, the duck confit, the grilled portobello and buffalo mozzarella — many of the dishes combine Pacific Rim flavors. And the kitchen is not afraid of chilies, so ask for advice if you are.

Humor is another guiding principle at Umami. The restrooms, for example, are labeled "Umomi" and "Udadi." The seared ahi tuna mini wonton taco makes fun of its own Global Village combination. Fun with fusion! Thin mini taco shells are stuffed with the rare tuna and trailed with wasabi sour cream. Asian guacamole and a pickled cucumber salad come alongside. The combination is a tingly circus of textures and wake-up summer flavors.

Among the appetizers, we also loved the Peking duck quesadillas, packed with meaty duck and decorated with hoisin sauce and creme fraiche, with no trace of grease. The vindaloo samosa, a savory Indian fried pastry stuffed with spicy potato, was doughy and less successful. Maybe the humid evening made it harder to keep these crisp. The Umami salad was wilty, with too much Indonesia peanut sauce; a little of the creamy-spicy concoction goes a long way.

For our entrees, the evil Jungle Prince arrived in a clay pot. It was hot stuff all right, but tamed with creamy coconut milk, chunks of chicken and brown rice. Pan-seared halibut served over rice in a wide bowl represented seafood at the other end of the spectrum: restrained and simple but still full of umami-ness, with braised bok choy and a miso-onion sauce. The protein in the fish heightens the umami sensation. The same synergy happened with the barbecued beef ribs, with meat that fell right off the bone, although the fruity sauce, "chee-hou style," could have had more character. Auntie Nancy's sesame coleslaw on the side was delicious and appropriate.

The wait staff were cute and enthusiastic if somewhat rough around the edges. Our server tried to snatch a plate too early and neglected extra plates for sharing. Luckily, the casual atmosphere allowed us to overlook some of this; originality overcame elegance and personality beat professionalism.

The dessert selection is short, rich and to the point: a banana concoction named Miranda, a vanilla creme brulEe and the two others we shared. The brownie sundae, with local Blue Pig ice cream and sprinkles, featured rough, dark chocolate brownies made from a recipe from the mother of Craig Purdy, Pratt's partner. The unusual Flan Con Queso, a cheesecake spin on a classic Hispanic custard, struck a balance between cream-cheese tang and eggy lightness.

Umami was terrific fun. The food and wine are intelligent, personal and adventuresome; the attitude is casual but not sloppy. That free glutamate must have its mojo working, because you want to go back and try what you couldn't, plus new appealing dishes that will surely await.

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