|
Westchester County Times January 2003
"Life With
Umami: Finding Culinary Harmony in Croton"
Having dined at Ümami once before, I knew to eat a very light lunch and bring along friends who loved to eat. My chosen guests did not disappoint. They were smitten with the pea and potato-filled vindaloo samosas ($5) and devoured the triangles of foie gras panini ($8) with gusto. We split an ahi tuna entree ($7.50/$15) as a starter and delighted in the way the crunch of the wonton shell taco exterior played off of the seared tuna, wasabi sour cream and Asian guacamole. Asian guacamole? This place is all about international hybrids, with Japanese, Filipino, Thai, French, Italian and Latino influences uniting in culinary harmony. Two of the other starters were a less successful venture in multinationalism. Although the meat was tough and bland, I totally fell for the sweet chili dipping sauce that accompanied the wild boar spring rolls ($6). Pratt later revealed to me that the sauce is actually sold in bottle form under the Mae Play label. (He also advised me that it is especially good on hotdogs fresh off the grill.) I was in the minority with my disparaging remarks about the duck-amaki ($7)--a spin-off on Japanese negimaki--which was too chewy for my taste. The table was supposed to share all of the main courses, but I couldn't stop myself from being the first to pick at the pork osso buco adobo ($16). Combining Filipino and Hawaiian flavors with Italian technique, it was one of the most tender pork dishes I've ever had. Pratt uses Niman ranch pork shanks (a higher quality cut than is traditionally in adobo), which he sears in duck fat and then douses with vinegar and braises "until they're falling off the bone." Another winners was the grilled confit duck leg ($16), which is packed in garlic and Kosher salt overnight, then confited (submerged in its own fat for several hours(, and finally grilled to an irresistibly crispy exterior. The creamy lentils that came with it were good as the ones at Ümami's sister restaurant, Peter Pratt's Inn in Yorktown. Among the other entrees, the beef skirt steak ($15) had a wonderful soy tang (not t0o mention killer fries) and I couldn't keep my fork away from the coconut milk-infused pieces of chicken in the Evil Jungle Prince ($12), a spicy Thai-style curry served in a homey clay pot. The presence of umami is supposed to suppress one's sweet tooth, but, of course, I was the exception to the rule. They do seem like an afterthought, though, on an otherwise richly creative menu. The pumpkin mousse ($5) was seasonally appropriate and the chocolate lava cake ($7) didn't fail to pleas, but neither wowed us the way the savory dishes did. Next time I'll know to double that order of pork adobo! Ümami Cafe's 50-seat dining room has a bit of an Ikea-esque feel, with royal blue walls and blond wood tables. The summer months benefit from an added 40 seats on the patio, which help alleviate what can often be lengthy waits due to a strict no reservations policy. The restaurant is located at 325 South Riverside Drive in Croton-on-Hudson. It is open for lunch Monday through Friday and for dinner seven nights a week. For more information, call 271-5555. The recipes: Evil
Jungle Prince 2
tablespoons peanut oil 1/8
cup carrots, peeled and julienned Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic, sautéing until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes, carrots, eggplant, peas and bamboo shoots, stirring until the vegetables begin to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tofu and curry paste, stirring until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. Add the coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Once the coconut milk begins to thicken, stir in the fish sauce and palm sugar. Continue to cook until the chicken and vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Right before serving, tear up the Thai basil leaves with your hands and add them to the saucepan. Serve immediately with Jasmine or Japanese rice.
Pan-Seared Halibut with Sweet Onion Miso Sauce
and and Sauteed Baby Bok Choy Sweet
Onion Miso Sauce Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until very soft with no color, about 3 minutes. Add the white wine, scraping the bottom of the pot gently to remove drippings. Bring to a simmer and reduce the sauce by half of the original amount. Add the chicken stock and reduce the sauce again by half of the original amount. Transfer to a blender and puree over medium speed until smooth. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve into a small pot, whisk in the miso, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve. 4
halibut filets, boneless and skinless Pre-heat the oven to 350º F. Season the halibut generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of peanut oil in a large sauté pan until lightly smoking. add the halibut to the pan, skin-side down, and sear until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a fish spatula, gently turn the filets. Transfer the pan to the oven, and cook until tender and firm to the touch, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the remaining peanut oil in a sauté pan over medium. Add the garlic and sauté until golden brown, about 1 minute. Ad the bok choy, turning constantly to sear evenly on all sides. Add the stock, and cook the bok choy until it is bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Served with Japanese rice. Chile
Pepper Water 2 1/2 cups water 1 clove garlic Combine 1/2 cup of water, the garlic, and the peppers in a blender. Turn your head away from the blender, and stand back from it to protect your eyes and nose from the fumes. Blend the ingredients together over medium speed until they form a smooth paste. Reserved. In a medium saucepot, bring the remaining water to a boil. Add the reserved paste, along with the white wine vinegar, fresh ginger and kosher salt. Whisk vigorously to thoroughly incorporate the ingredients. Once the mixture comes to a boil, remove it from the heat, and allow it to cool to room temperature. |
What
would the world be like without umami? Without the sublime richness
of foie gras, the heady earthiness of truffles, the just-picked juiciness
of fresh tomatoes and the satisfying saltiness of soy sauce? Until
Jonathan Pratt and Craig Purdy introduced me o the concept at their
Croton hotspot, Ümami
Café
I had no idea that such a thing existed. Umami, also known as glutamic
acid, is an amino acid compound that a Japanese scientist discovered
in 1908. It is found in the aforementioned foods, as well as in countless
others that appear on the menu at this comfortably casual spot.